dishwashers Archives - Charles Buell Consulting LLC

January 7, 2015 by Charles Buell

Do you feel “lucky” or “yucky?”

We have all seen the adds on TV for the dishwasher soaps that promise to leave your crystal wine glasses just as spotless–as a Dalmatian is spotted.

On a recent inspection I found a dishwasher drain installation that might just keep that crystal even MORE spotted than a Dalmatian. Take a look at the picture below and you should be able to see how when water drains from the left basin it can run right INTO the drain from the dishwasher.

Most people like to think of their dishwasher as a relatively sanitary environment and risking dirty water flowing back into the washer is not considered a good idea. The best spot-free detergents in the world are not going to help with this insult. This dishwasher drain should be connected to a proper countertop air-gap device or to a Johnson-T air gap device –and then to a proper drain location.

Remember that chicken or fish you gutted in the sink last week?

Or when the kids gave fluffy a bath?

Hopefully nobody washed out diapers in the sink–oh yeah, I forgot–nobody washes diapers at home any more.

Yes even that stuff–or worse–might find its way into the dishwasher. The kitchen sink gets used for all kinds of things.

Makes you want to go lick the Gum Wall, in Post Alley, Seattle, WA doesn’t it?

By Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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October 3, 2012 by Charles Buell

The Johnson Tee Dishwasher Air Gap Device—some more information.

I have done several other posts about the Johnson Tee and their use as an alternative to the countertop style air gap device for dishwashers.

Johnson Tees and Countertop Air Gap Devices

Johnson Tee’s—another way to vent your dishwasher drain

Johnson Tee Air Gap Device with Decorative Cap

While I like these devices quite a lot, because they eliminate the need for having a device installed on the sink or countertop, it has come to my attention that some modern dishwashers require a 5/8” drain line from the washer. In order to make these dishwashers quieter they use less noisy motors that do not have the pumping capacity of older noisier motors. The larger size drain minimizes clogging that might result with smaller diameter drains.

There are still lots of dishwashers—even really quiet ones—that still allow the ½” drains typical of Johnson Tee’s. The problem might arise if one has a Johnson Tee installed and one buys a washer that requires a 5/8” drain line. This is not a big issue as the Johnson Tee would need to be properly abandoned and a countertop style air gap device installed. The other option of course would be to find a washer that allows for a ½” drain line.

Some of the dishwashers that I found installation instructions for that require a minimum 5/8” drain lines were GE, ASKO and Bosch—there are likely others.

Some of the dishwashers that I found installation instructions for that require a minimum 1/2” drain lines were Whirlpool, Kitchenaid and Amana—there are likely others.

There also may be different “models” of many of the manufacturers’ that either allow or don’t allow a ½” drain line.

Some jurisdictions do not even require air gap devices—or are not enforcing codes that do require them.

Every dishwasher installation’s requirements must be met regardless, and this is why installation of a dishwasher should only be done by a qualified professional.

By Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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June 1, 2012 by Charles Buell

Next time call a real plumber!

A simple kitchen sink drain can sure get complicated.

As you can see from this installation everything seems to fit together nicely and looks all nice and crisp and white—-so what can be the problem?

drain1 — What is wrong with this drain installation?

The distance from the bottom of the trap has been dropped way down to allow for installation of the tail piece for the dishwasher (the vertical section of pipe with the grey hose attached to it). If you look closely at the middle left of the drain (in the shadow) you should be able to see where the drain enters the wall. This drain opening is too high (even without the dishwasher tail piece) to allow for proper installation of the trap. Too much water would have ended up trapped in the pipe than would be proper.

The addition of the dishwasher tail piece not only keeps way to much water in the pipe but it allows water to seek its own level through much of the dishwasher drain. This water will be laden with crud that gets poured down the sink drain and under the right circumstances could be sucked back into the dishwasher (nasty thought—-use your imagination and think of all the things you have put down a kitchen sink).

This next picture—highlighted in “water-blue”—-shows the approximate standing water levels present in the drain —-that means it sits there all the time when the sink or dishwasher is not being used.

Highlighted water levels inside the drain

The dishwasher drain line rests on the bottom of the sink cabinet where again I have highlighted the drain in blue.

In this next picture you can see the approximate water line in the dishwasher drain were it heads toward the top of the dishwasher.

In the drain cycle, the dishwasher pumps water to the top of the dishwasher and then down and supposedly out the drain. This dishwasher will have to overcome all that water and previously mentioned crud that is already in the drain.

Unfortunately the fix for this will not be very easy as the drain in the wall itself will have to be lowered (or possibly a different sink installed) in order to allow for proper installation of all of the necessary components. Perhaps a plumber should have been called in the first place.

Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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